Fujifilm X-H2S Motorsports Guide

This guide was written and based around firmware version 7.20. 

Summary

I wrote this guide to help out other Fujifilm X-H2s users who ask me for more information on my setup, settings, and gear.


I started shooting motorsports on Fujifilm on a X-T30, using an XF 18-55mm f/2.8-4 and XF55-200mmF3.5-4.8. I used this setup for around a year before moving onto a X-H2 on release. I soon realised I would benefit from faster read out speeds and picked up a X-H2s in early 2024 and have been shooting with it heavily since. 

I primarily shoot motorsports, superbikes, touring cars, and GT racing. This mostly involves fast moving, unpredictable subjects. The X-H2 & X-H2s have had ups and downs in its firmware releases that have both improved and negatively affected the autofocus system. 

At time of writing I am using the latest firmware on my X-H2s, 7.20. This version has fixed a number of issues for me and I find its autofocus, although not without flaws, is predictable, fast, and sticky on subjects. 


My current setup I take to every race weekend includes the below. 


  • Fujifilm X-H2s

  • Fujifilm X-H2

  • XF16-55mmF2.8 R LM WR

  • XF50-140mmF2.8 R LM OIS WR

  • XF150-600mmF5.6-8 R LM OIS WR

  • K&F Concept 77MM CPL Filter (Nano-X Series)

  • K&F Concept 72mm Variable ND Filter ND3-ND1000 (Nano-X Series)

  • K&F Concept 82mm Variable ND Filter ND3-ND1000 (Nano-X Series)



I use four custom modes, specifically C3 & C4 for shooting cars, and C5 & C6 for shooting motorbikes. 

All four of these custom modes are essentially set up the same. The main differences being C3 & C4 are set to subject detections for cars, and C5 & C6 for motorbikes. 

C3 & C5 use slower shutter speeds, mostly for panning, and C4 & C6 use faster shutter speeds. 

I have my camera set up this way so I can simply switch between the two extremes when needed at the flick of a switch. But the settings within all 4 custom modes are mostly the same, apart from shutter speeds and iso. 



Settings

As described previously this is used for 4 separate settings with small changes made for each. 


Shooting Mode - Manual

Shutter Speed - 1/60th panning, 1/1250th non-panning.

Drive Mode - CH High Speed Burst 20fps.


I shoot in manual mode so I have full control of my exposure and can predict or manipulate the photo as needed.

Shutter speeds vary based on the composition but I use the above as defaults.

I use 20fps as the camera has no problems shooting this for long bursts due to the large buffer. The buffer is so fast and with 1750MB/s write speeds to CF-Express the images are quickly moved to CF-Express. 

IQ

  • Image Quality - RAW

  • RAW Recording - Lossless

  • White Balance - Auto


All other settings are default or are irrelevant to shooting RAW.


AF/MF 

  • Focus Mode - AF-C

  • AF Mode - All

  • AF-C Custom Settings - 6

    • Tracking Sensitivity - 4

    • Speed Tracking Sensitivity - 2

    • Zone Area Switching - Front


  • Subject Detection - Automobile

  • AF+MF - On

  • Instant AF Setting - AF-C

  • Touch Screen Mode - Off


All other settings are either default, or changes as and when required per shoot. I have touch screen mode set to off so my cheek doesn’t change my AF point when I have the camera up to my eye. 


Shooting Settings

  • Pre-shot ES - On

  • Shutter Type - ES

  • IS Mode - Shooting Only

  • ISO - 160 Panning, Auto 1 160 - 3200 when not panning.


All other settings are either default, or changes as and when required per shoot. I always shoot using electronic shutter when using my X-H2s, I have found banding to not be an issue due to the fast read out speeds of the sensor in this camera.

Before the current firmware version, 7.20, I used to have IS mode set to off when panning. I have tested this back and forth and find it causes little issues now. Previously I found when moving horizontally, panning, the sensor would be dragged the wrong way, which would give me a smudgy unpredictable photo. This does still seem to happen with vertical movement. If the subject is changing elevation on track as well as moving horizontally, I will set IS mode to off.

Having the setting set to shooting only means the image stabilisation only kicks in when focusing or shooting. 

I have the default iso set to 160, this is because I am often shooting at between 1/40th and 1/10th.


Button/Dial Setting

Shutter AF 

  • AF-S Off

  • AF-C Off


This with the below Fn settings for the AF-On button enables back button focusing. 


Function (Fn) Setting

To preface my button setup I need to clarify that I do not do video, so some of the settings may not be optimal for you if you do. 


  • Rec - IS Mode

  • ISO - Right/left Eye Switch

  • WB - White Balance

  • Fn1 - Face Detection On/Off

  • Fn2 - Subject Detection On/Off

  • Fn3 - Focus Mode

  • AF-ON - AF-ON


The rest of the settings are irrelevant to motorsports shooting, and I do not use the touch screen options at all as I have the touch screen disabled.


Screen Setting

Image Disp. - Off

Preview Exp./WB in Manual Mode - EXP/WB


I have the image display set to off, this stops the last image taken being displayed in the EVF or on screen. I find this helpful during a busy race and in between bursts or compositions. 

Preview exposure and white balance in manual mode is useful as I often use slow shutter speeds and ND filters, this allows me to get an idea of the output before the photo is created. 


Power Management

Auto Power Off - Off

Performance - Boost

EVF/LCD Boost Settings - 120p

Auto Power Off Temp. - High


I hate autopower off, I would rather have to change to one of my other batteries more frequently than miss an opportunity for a shot. Having IS mode set to shooting only helps with battery life. 

Performance is always set to boost, this allows the camera to operate at its full potential. The autofocus is noticeably worse when set to normal, and I haven’t tried economy but I imagine it’s even worse.

EVF/LCD Boost Settings set to 120p priorities frame rate without reducing brightness. This really helps when using the zero black out electronic shutter in high burst mode. This combination of settings is one of the main reasons I prefer to shoot fast action with the X-H2s over my X-H2.

Auto Power Off Temp set to high hasn’t been an issue for me yet, but I am only ever shooting in Britain.

Save Setup

  • Card Slot Setting - Sequential 

  • Select Slot - 1


Card slot set to sequential means one card will be written to before the other. Using backup is only useful if both cards are of the same capacity. The main downside to the Fujifilm X-H line up is that it doesn’t take 2x CF Express type B cards. For this reason I use a small capacity SD card as overflow. This is helpful if I am mid-burst, or mid shot opportunity, and I don’t want to miss something by switching my CF-Express card out for a fresh one.

Setting the default save slot to 1 means the CF-Express card will be saved to until it’s reached capacity before saving to slot 2, the SD card.